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Crate
Training Your Dog |
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| What
is Crate Training? |
| The most talked
about new method of training dogs is crate training. More and more dog
owners and their pets are learning the benefits of starting
puppies on crate training as soon as they arrive in their new home.
Crate training is the use of a plastic airline crate or a wire cage to
confine a puppy when the family is not home or is unable to supervise
the puppy's activities. The crate in effect, becomes the puppy's bed.
Other terms used interchangeably with crate training are den
and kennel.
You may feel that it is cruel
to confine a dog to a crate. It would be cruel to just close him
in the crate and leave. But if you introduce him to the crate properly,
you will find that your puppy will quickly come to prefer it for
sleeping and quiet time. Too many dogs are surrendered to animal
shelters because of the damage done while they are unattended. Since
over 85% of these puppies are euthanized, it is kind, NOT cruel, to
crate train a puppy to prevent behavioral and housebreaking
problems. |
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| Why
Crate Train? |
| Dogs in the wild
live in dens. The den provides wild dogs protection from predators as
well as the elements, and it allows for a feeling of security. That's
why you often find dogs curling up under a table, chair, or bed. By
giving dogs a secure place that is all their own, pet owners can take
advantage of a dogs' natural instincts to help the dog feel safe, thus
reducing isolation-induced stress.
Crate training, if done
properly, is a wonderful training tool with many benefits. Apart from
the obvious uses for transporting dogs, a crate can be used for short-term
confinement -- to keep your puppy out of mischief so he does not develop
bad habits when you cannot give him your undivided attention.
A crate can also be used to
develop good habits --to housetrain your puppy, to establish a chew-toy
habit, and to reduce inappropriate barking and digging. Also, if your
dog ever injures himself or becomes ill, the crate will be invaluable
during recovery. If you move, your dog's adjustment to a new home will
be quicker and less stressful if he is crate trained. If you stay in
motels or visit relatives, your dog will be "damage-proof" if
he travels with his crate. If you travel by car, placing the dog in the
crate will keep him out from under your feet, away from the driver, and
more safe in case of an accident. |
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| Who
Should Crate Train? |
| Owners of new
puppies and any adult dogs with destruction and/or housebreaking
problems should crate train. The only time crate training would not be
advisable is in a situation where a puppy will be left alone for an
extended period of time and a family member cannot come home to let the
puppy out during the day.
It is a dog's natural
instinct to keep his crate/home clean, so he will "hold it" as
long as he can before eliminating in the crate. The maximum time an 8
week old puppy should be in his crate without a break is 4 hours.
Puppies younger than 8 weeks have to "go" about every 2-3
hours so they should be given a crate-break at those intervals. Except
for overnight sleeping, crate confinement approaching 8 hours is
strongly discouraged. As the puppy gets older (4-6 months) you can
gradually leave him in his crate for longer periods of time, but you
should never exceed 8 hours for any dog.
If a family member is unable to
come home midday to let the puppy out, there are a couple of
alternatives. The most desirable would be for a pet-sitter, relative, or
neighbor to come by the house and let the puppy out while he is young.
If this is not an option, leave the puppy in a confined area with his
crate with the crate door open. This way he can sleep in the crate and
come out of his crate to use the bathroom. A collapsible wire barrier
called an "exercise pen" (or X-pen) can be used to create a
damage proof, safe inside area or a small bathroom can be used. However,
using this type of set-up will lengthen the housebreaking process
because the puppy will be learning to eliminate in the house. Also, some
puppies can quickly learn to climb out of the X-pen. |
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| When
Should You Crate Train? |
| Owners of all age
puppies and dogs can start crate training at any time. It is best to
start puppies immediately, so they do not have the opportunity to
develop bad habits. Most adult dogs can be taught to like using their
crates if they are introduced to it properly. In most cases, it will
take an adult dog longer to adjust to a crate than it will a
puppy.
The key is to let the dog get
comfortable going in and out of the crate on his own. Never force
the dog into the crate. To get your canine interested in the crate, you
can put his food dish inside so he has to go in to eat. Also, you can
make going in the crate a game by throwing treats or his favorite toy
inside for the dog to retrieve. |
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| What
Size/Type Crate? |
| Size:
The ideal situation for housebreaking is to use a size crate
that is 2 times the puppy's body length and big enough for the puppy to
stand-up, turn around, and lie down in.
However, for most people, it is
not feasible to purchase new crates as the puppy grows. The best
alternative is to buy a crate that will be large enough for your dog
when he grows up. As an adult, the dog should be able to lie down
comfortable on his side as well as stand, sit, and turn around without
difficulty.
For housebreaking a puppy, the
crate should can be made smaller by using a partition (made of a safe
substance) or a divider panel to limit space. If the puppy has too much
room, he will eliminate in one area of the crate and sleep in another,
thus increasing the time it takes to housetrain the puppy.
Type:
There are two basic types of crates: a plastic "airline
kennel" and a wire cage. Each has certain advantages. The plastic
crates are usually more portable than wire cages and are more
"cozy" for the animal, while wire cages typically have more
width and height space than plastic cages of approximately the same
size. The angled design of the plastic crates makes their width at the
base more narrow than the box design of wire cages.
You can buy wire cages that are
easily collapsible and can be carried like a suitcase, which is helpful
when traveling. Most wire cages have removable pans that can slide out
for easy cleaning. If you select a wire cage, cover the back completely
and top and sides 1/2 way down with a towel to create a den-like
atmosphere. If you do not cover a portion of the cage, the dog may not
feel safe and secure because of the openness of the cage.
Plastic crates and wire
cages are available at most pet stores and by mail order from companies
such as wholesaler R. C. Steele 800.872.3773 and Doctors Foster &
Smith 800.826.7206. |
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| Where
Do You Put The Crate? |
| Dogs are pack
animals and prefer to be with their pack/family, so keep the crate in a
lived-in part of the house. A bedroom, kitchen or family room is
good -- never a garage or unused basement!
When the puppy is young it is
recommended to have the crate near the door he will be going out to use
the bathroom. Having the crate close to the door will help prevent any
elimination accidents as the puppy leaves his crate and heads for the
door to go out. |
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| How
Do You Crate Train? |
Your dog should
thoroughly enjoy spending time in his crate. This can be accomplished by
introducing him to the crate properly, making it comfortable and fun to
go into the crate, and by giving him something entertaining to do in the
crate. Below is a step-by-step outline of the recommended process:
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| Set
Up |
| 1. Set up
the crate with the puppy out of the room, so as not to startle
him. |
| 2. Use old
blankets, towels or sheets as bedding. Do not make the
bedding material too absorbent because the puppy needs to be
severely inconvenienced if he urinates in his crate. Note:
Many puppies will chew bedding which can be very dangerous so
take time to observe if he is trying to chew his bedding. |
| 3. DO
NOT use housebreaking pads in the crate because this will
attract and encourage the puppy to eliminate in his crate. |
| 4. DO
NOT put a water bowl in the crate because it will spill and
wet the bedding. |
| 5. DO
put one or two safe chew toys in the crate with the puppy so he
has something to occupy his time -- a Tuffy Kong toy is one of
the best and safest toys to leave a puppy alone with. Stuffing a
Kong toy with freeze-dried liver or a biscuit can keep the puppy
entertained. Note:
Do not leave a puppy alone with a toy that can splinter or break
off in small pieces, such as rib bones and rawhide bones. These
are chew toys that should be supervised as they may cause the
puppy to choke. |
| 6. If you
are using a wire crate, place an old blanket or sheet over the
top and sides in order to create a den-like atmosphere. Tuck the
ends of the covering under the crate so that the puppy cannot
pull them inside to chew on them. |
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| Introduction
and Use of the Crate |
| 1. When it
is time for the puppy's meal, place the bowl just inside of the
crate so the puppy has to stick his head into the crate to eat. |
| 2. Between
feedings, you can make going into the crate a game by tossing in
treats or toys. Allow your puppy to come and go at will --do not
force your puppy into the crate. |
| 3. When the
puppy gets in the crate on his own or because there is a treat
inside, this is your cue to start associating a command with the
action. You can use statements such as "kennel up"
or "go to bed." The most important thing to
remember in giving commands is to be brief and consistent. |
| 4. Always
leave the crate door open when your puppy is out of the crate so
he can get in it when he wants. |
| 5. When you
are home, make going into the crate a game. Give your chosen
command, such as "go to bed," and throw a treat
or toy into the crate. Let your puppy walk in and out of the
crate at will. Whenever your puppy goes into the crate on his
own, lavish him with praise! |
| 6. Each
time the puppy enters his crate for confinement, give him a
tasty treat such as Bil-Jac Liver Treats, jerky treats, cat
treats, or a small piece of hot dog or cheese. |
| 7. ALWAYS
use your chosen command when calling your dog to the crate for
confinement. DO NOT simply call him to you, as he may
become wary of approaching you when called. |
| 8. NEVER
USE THE CRATE AS PUNISHMENT! Your dog will pick up
"vibes" from you if you put him in the crate when you
are angry. The puppy's crate should be his secure place. It
should not be associated with punishment, fear, or anything
negative. If you treat the crate as a wonderful, gentle,
lifesaving tool to prevent accidents, destruction, and behavior
problems, your puppy will feel positive about the crate too. |
| 9. Every
time you let the puppy out of his crate, even if he has only
been confined 30 minutes, take him straight outside to his
"potty" area and give him your command such as "go
potty" or "hurry up." Praise him when
he eliminates outside. If the puppy does not eliminate within
five minutes and you know it is time for him to do so, put him
back in the crate. Wait approximately 30 minutes and then take
him outside again. In the morning, be sure to take the puppy out
the minute he starts to fuss. |
| 10. If the
puppy eliminates in his crate, clean it up immediately and
thoroughly. After cleaning up the urine, wipe the bottom of the
crate with a pet odor eliminating product or a solution of
vinegar and water. It is necessary to clean up the odor
completely so the puppy does not smell it later and urinate
there again. |
| 11. During
all unsupervised times, the puppy should be in his crate with
the door closed. Normal, healthy puppies will generally get into
mischief if unattended. The tendency of puppies to
"learn" about their surroundings is too strong for
them to control --learning means chewing, scratching, and
digging. If the puppy is unable to get into trouble, destructive
habits will not be formed. |
| 12. As your
puppy gets older (probably close to 1 year old), you can start
leaving him out of the crate unattended for short periods of
time. When you first leave him unattended and out of the crate,
restrict him to one or two rooms in the house. If the puppy
behaves in your absence, gradually increase his time out of the
crate with the ultimate goal being never having to close him in
his crate. However, he should continue to have access to his
crate whenever he wants. If the puppy gets into mischief in your
absence, begin to crate him again whenever he is unsupervised
and try again later. |
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| When
Problems Arise |
Elimination
in the Crate could be due to a number of causes:
Was the puppy crated longer than he was able to "hold
it"?
Did the puppy drink an excessive amount of water before he was
crated?
Did you take him outside and give him a chance to eliminate
before he was crated?
Is the crate too big, enabling the puppy to get away from his
mess?
Is the bedding material too absorbing his mess so he is not
severely inconvenienced when he urinates in the crate?
Never rule out medical problems when your pet's habits seem to
change. Some dogs and breeds are easier to crate train than
others, so keep trying and do not get discouraged if there are
occasional mess-ups. |
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| Barking
in the Crate: Puppies
may bark when they are first put in the crate. In most cases, if
you ignore the barking, the puppy will stop because he is not
getting what he wants -- attention. Do not allow family
members let the puppy out of the crate when he barks. If you do,
you run the risk of training him to bark so he will be let
out.
If the barking persists
over days or weeks, you can try covering the entire crate with a
blanket or sheet. Try this method for a few days to see if it
reduces the puppy's barking. You can also try leaving a radio
playing to mask sounds and keep the puppy company when you are
away. Surprisingly, yelling "be quiet" at a barking
dog may actually reinforce its barking behavior. For many dogs any
type of attention is rewarding --even reprimands. |
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| If crate
training problems of any type persist and you have had the puppy's
health checked by a veterinarian, seek help from a professional dog
trainer/behaviorist. |
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